Q: Can I just pull the pipe out?
A: No. Once PVC is glued, the joint is permanent. The solvent cement melts the plastic to form a single bond. You’ll need to cut or heat it to separate the two.
Q: What are the best ways to remove it?
A: Three proven methods are depending on how much space you have and whether you want to save the elbow.
- 1. Cut and replace: The fastest and cleanest method is cutting off the old elbow entirely and re-gluing a new one. Use a PVC cutter or fine-tooth saw and new primer and cement for a leak-free seal.
- 2. Use a heat gun: Apply heat evenly to the elbow for 30–45 seconds. As the PVC softens, use pliers or a screwdriver to peel out the remaining inner pipe wall. Heat gun example. Be careful not to overheat — PVC burns easily.
- 3. Try a fitting reamer: Specialty tools like the Oatey Socket Saver or General Fitting Saver can grind out the old pipe while preserving the fitting socket. Attach it to a drill and gently ream out the pipe remnants.
Q: When should I replace the elbow instead?
A: If the fitting is brittle, cracked, or scorched during removal, replace it. It’s not worth risking a future leak in a pressurized system. PVC fittings are inexpensive, and re-cementing a new one is safer than reusing a damaged elbow.
Q: What’s the best cement for re-piping?
A: Always use a matching primer and solvent cement rated for your pipe type (Schedule 40 or 80). For pump lines, Oatey Heavy Duty Clear PVC Cement works well. Let joints cure for 15 minutes before pressure testing.
Q: Should I unplug my pump while working?
A: Yes. Always disconnect power before working on any plumbing connected to electrical components. Cover open pipe ends to keep debris out of the pump housing.
I’m Chris Mayer, writing for Plumbing 101.